Teton Wilderness, WY: Buffalo Plateau Loop

August snow, raging river crossing, bubbling bogs, off trail bouldering, log hopping, Grizzlies, wolves, lions, and lightening are just some of the dangers that are found on this trip.  But take a look at the prize in the picture above... worth it?  ah, yes, a summit sunrise in the Rockies of Wyoming is definitely worth all the troubles.  What can I say about this trip? I learned so much about nature, myself,  and God being in the most rugged backcountry in the Lower 48 for five days.  You go and find out what you will learn.

Here in the Teton Wilderness lie both the greatest single congregation of Grizzly Bears, and the furthest locations from any roads in the lower 48 States.  What a place to celebrate the 50th Anniversary of the Wilderness Act this month!  Despite its name, the Teton Wilderness is not in the Teton Range but in the Absaroka Mountains, home of the most desolate peaks, forests, and meadows in the Continental USA.  The trip I took follows a trail most of the way, but because of erosion, horses, and a removed location, trail maintenance and signage is poor, as is topo map updating.  Thus to accomplish this hike safely you need all the tools of an expert backpacker, sufficient research of the area, and a topographical map with knowledge of how to use it.  Believe me, though, all the hardships both before and during this trip will be worth it.  It was to me.  


Category: Strenuous 
Miles: 35
Elevation Gain:  5000'
Days: 5
Nights: 4
Location: Teton Wilderness, Shoshone National Forest, Bridger-Teton National Forest
Experience Level: Expert
Season: July-September (for mostly snow-clear walking)
Directions:  http://goo.gl/maps/PYQ41 
Hiking in Bear Country: http://www.grizzlydiscoveryctr.com/bear-country.php
The Route Video (NOT MINE): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OtF9D7g1hLg

Overview Maps

The Hike: As soon as you arrive at the Trailhead (9,050'), you are struck with the grandeur of God's Creation.  The Continental Divide towers over you to the west, while silent and serene Brooks Lake and its meadows stretch out towards you.  As you begin, you pass through a latched gate to begin your trek.  Depending on the time you go, the next five miles could either be a relaxing walk around lakes and meadows or a mud slog with ooze up near your knee at some points.  Bring gaiters.  After rounding Brooks Lake, you enter into an expansive verdant pasture and cross a large creek.  (FYI:  don't take this trip if you don't know how to cross LARGE Rivers, and if you don't like perpetual wet feet).   As you skirt the grasses and hug the dark forest note the calmness of the place... truly amazing.  After about 3 miles you cross the Continental Divide at Bear Cub Pass (9,200') and enter into the Teton Wilderness.  The next 2 miles you walk down into Cub Creek Canyon, where you can pick a decent campsite for the night.  (refer to map above).  The next morning you pick up the trail, and cross Cub Creek before climbing up the slopes of the Buffalo Plateau above.  It is a steep trek up, but the trail is grazed by beautiful wildflowers, which makes the slog seem less difficult.  For about 5 miles you simply walk alongside the western edge of the Plateau, occasionally gaining glimpses of the high country through the trees.  You walk through a burned forest for about an hour, which is eerily beautiful.  The blackened trees stand as a stark contrast to the young grasses and wildflowers growing at their bases.  

From this point on is hard to narrate, you really need a topo map and a good sense of direction to find your next camp spot.  At the signed trail split take the trail pointing towards Angle Lakes, and follow it until you find a suitable campsite for the night.  Upon awakening the next morning, continue following the trail through the forest passing by numerous lakes and meadows.  Bertha Lake is particularly stunning, with its light blue water, and white sands within it.   You may notice that most of the trees around you are dead.  This is because of the invasive Bark Beetle, which viciously breeds and feeds in the pines of the Rocky Mountains.  Try not to stop too long or camp in a spot where the"dead falls" tower.   After enjoying the serene lakes, the the trail keeps traveling up, but when you reach a burned forest, with views into a large lush meadow below, you scramble down that charred slope 400' into the meadow, where most likely you will see many horses, and pick up another trail.  From here you follow the trail as best you can, but, because you have now entered the domain of the mighty Buffalo River, no trail is permanent, and you simply must at many times bushwhack and boulder hop, crossing and recrossing the river until at last the trail can be found.  Again, refer to your topo maps.  At last when through hiking in the gorge of the Buffalo River, you pick up the trail again near the end of the canyon and then make a turn southward to begin the completion of your loop.  You then head upwards to a divide separating the watercourses of the Buffalo River and Cub Creek.  Here on the alpine meadows at 10,000' is your next campsite.  Find some trees and call it home for the night.  From this jump-off point there is a great opportunity to climb onto the plateau you have been walking around for the past few days.  If you rise and climb up, make it to a decent benchmark by sunrise. I promise it will be an experience you never will forget.  

From the High Camp follow the trail back down the canyon of Cub Creek 5 miles, until you cross the namesake creek, completing your loop.  From here, near the site of your first night's camp, you should spend another night, before making the 5 miles trek back up Bear Cub Pass and onto Brooks Lake Trailhead.  Refer to my map above.  Any questions about the trail? Leave a comment on my blog, and I can get in touch with you.   

Saint Dominic and Saint Clare, Pray for Us!
Our Lady, Seat of Wisdom, Pray for Us!      

Hiked August 7-11th 2014,  Fremont County, WY, Wilderness Permit Required.